Look at this girl who catches wild kicks lying on your back on a surfboard and I remember how I once tried to ride on this Board. Not huge waves of course, but on a little, but not lay on the shore as she.
I have learned to stand on the Board. This case was tough - very difficult to keep balance when the waves rock the Board and aim to throw. To stand I learned, but take a chance and catch a great wave would not venture. A lot of respect for guys surfers for their courage, perseverance and the beauty of riding they give.